Culture · Music · The Gambia
The kora and the griots (jalis) of The Gambia
The kora is a 21-string harp-lute made from a large calabash covered in cowhide, and it is the signature instrument of Mandinka music in The Gambia and the wider region. It is traditionally played by jalis — the hereditary musicians, praise-singers and oral historians often called griots in English and French. Hearing a kora played live is one of the most memorable cultural experiences a visitor can have.
What is a kora?
The kora combines features of a harp and a lute. Its main parts are:
- The calabash: a large gourd, cut in half, forms the resonating body.
- The skin: cowhide stretched over the open calabash acts as the soundboard, a little like a drum head.
- The neck: a long hardwood pole passes through the calabash.
- The bridge: a tall, notched bridge stands on the skin and holds the strings in two parallel rows, one for each hand.
- The strings: usually 21. Traditionally they were made of twisted hide; today nylon fishing line is standard.
- Tuning: traditionally with leather rings on the neck that are slid to adjust tension; many modern instruments use wooden pegs or guitar-style machine heads, which hold tuning better.
The player faces the strings, holds two wooden handles, and plucks with the thumbs and index fingers of both hands. This allows a bass line, a repeating accompaniment pattern (often called kumbengo) and improvised runs (birimintingo) to be played at once, which is why a single kora can sound like several instruments. Players retune between a few traditional tunings depending on the piece.
Who are the jalis?
In Mandinka society, jali (plural jalolu; also written jeli or djeli elsewhere) is a hereditary role passed down within particular families. Jalis have traditionally been:
- Oral historians, keeping genealogies and the histories of families, villages and kingdoms, including the epic of Sunjata Keita, founder of the medieval Mali Empire.
- Praise-singers, performing the names and deeds of patrons and their ancestors at naming ceremonies, weddings and other events.
- Advisers and go-betweens, mediating between families and speaking on others' behalf.
- Musicians, on the kora and also on the balafon (a wooden xylophone) and the plucked lute known as the ngoni or konting.
Jali status is inherited: you are born into a jali family rather than choosing to become one, and children learn repertoire and history from relatives over many years. In The Gambia, surnames commonly associated with jali lineages include Suso, Kuyateh, Jobarteh and Konteh, among others — though not everyone with these names is a musician, and many non-jali families share surnames too. See Gambian names and surnames for more on surnames.
Wolof communities have their own griot tradition (gewel), strongly linked to drumming, especially the sabar. The food and music guide gives a wider overview.
Origins of the kora
The kora is closely associated with the old Kaabu kingdom and the Senegambian region — today's Gambia, southern Senegal and Guinea-Bissau — and it spread with Mandinka culture into Mali and Guinea. Oral traditions give different accounts of how the first kora came to people, and jalis tell these stories as part of the repertoire. What is clear is that it is a regional instrument with deep roots, and The Gambia is one of its heartlands.
Famous Gambian kora players
- Amadu Bansang Jobarteh — a highly respected master of the traditional repertoire, whose name links him to the upriver town of Bansang, and a teacher and elder of the Jobarteh jali family.
- Foday Musa Suso — a Gambian kora player who settled in the United States and became known internationally for collaborations with jazz and contemporary composers and musicians.
- Sona Jobarteh — a Gambian-British musician and granddaughter of Amadu Bansang Jobarteh, commonly described as the first female kora virtuoso from a griot family. She has also been involved in music education in The Gambia.
- Jaliba Kuyateh — one of The Gambia's most popular performers, known for energetic, kora-led Mandinka dance music with a full band.
Many other Gambian jalis perform at home and abroad, and kora players from neighbouring countries — notably Mali and Senegal — are also well known. Exploring recordings by these artists is a good way to hear the range from traditional to modern.
Where to hear the kora in The Gambia
- Brikama: long known as a centre of jali families and kora music, and within day-trip distance of the coast. Ask a guide or your accommodation about visiting a family compound or a music session.
- Hotels and restaurants: many coastal hotels and restaurants host kora players, especially in the evenings and at weekends. These sets are shorter and more relaxed, but still worth hearing.
- Cultural centres and small venues in the Kombos, including around Bakau and Serrekunda.
- Festivals and events: cultural festivals, national celebrations and local events regularly feature jalis — see festivals and events.
- Family ceremonies: naming ceremonies and weddings often feature jalis. If you are invited, you will hear music in its traditional social setting; it is customary for guests to give the jali small gifts of money during praise songs.
Some jalis also offer introductory lessons. If you are serious about learning, a few sessions with a family teacher are a rewarding way to spend time in The Gambia.
Buying a kora
Koras are made by specialist craftsmen and sold through musicians, workshops and some craft markets. A few pointers:
- Buy through a player if you can. A jali or kora teacher can recommend a maker and check the instrument.
- Decorative vs playable. Some souvenir koras look good but do not hold a tune. If you want to play, make sure it is a proper instrument.
- Check the build: the neck should be straight and solid, the skin tight and undamaged, the bridge well seated, and the tuning system — leather rings or pegs — should hold.
- Transport: a kora is large and fragile. Ask about a padded case and check your airline's rules for musical instruments before you fly.
- Plants and animal products: some countries have rules on importing untreated hide or plant materials; check your home country's customs rules.
The markets and crafts guide covers bargaining and buying crafts responsibly.
Frequently asked questions
What is a kora?
The kora is a 21-string harp-lute made from a large calabash covered in cowhide, with a long hardwood neck. It is the signature instrument of Mandinka jali music in The Gambia and the wider region.
How many strings does a kora have?
A standard kora has 21 strings, arranged in two rows on either side of a tall bridge, and is played with the thumbs and index fingers of both hands.
What is a griot or jali?
A jali, often called a griot, is a hereditary musician, praise-singer and oral historian. Jalis keep family histories and genealogies and perform at ceremonies, and the role is passed down within particular families.
Who are famous kora players from The Gambia?
Well-known Gambian kora players include Amadu Bansang Jobarteh, Foday Musa Suso, Sona Jobarteh and Jaliba Kuyateh, alongside many other jalis who perform at home and abroad.
Where can I hear kora music in The Gambia?
Brikama is known as a centre of jali families. Many hotels and restaurants on the coast host kora players, and cultural centres, festivals and family ceremonies also feature kora music.
Can I buy a kora in The Gambia?
Yes. It is best to buy through a musician or teacher who can recommend a maker and check that the instrument is playable, and to plan how you will transport it home.
What to read next
- Food and music — an overview of Gambian music.
- People and culture — the communities behind the traditions.
- Brikama — a centre of kora music.
- Gambian names and surnames — including jali family names.
- Festivals and events — where to catch live performances.
- History of The Gambia — from the Mali Empire to today.